Mt. Rainier: Fuhrer Finger to Gibraltar Chutes Link Up

The Fuhrer Finger on Mt. Rainier is a classic ascent route that offers direct access to the upper slopes of the mountain, via a steep 45 degree colouir. First climbed in 1920 by Hans Fuhrer, Heinie Fuhrer, Joseph Hazard, Payton Farrer, and Thomas Hermans, the route offers the most direct line of ascent to the summit. In previous years, while slogging up the Muir snowfield en-route to other objectives on Mt. Rainier, the Fuhrer Finger has beckoned me. The aesthetic nature of the line and position on the mountain begs to be skied and has became somewhat of a mountaineering goal of mine. I attempted to ski the Finger last spring but was turned around by adverse conditions and have been waiting for a chance ever since. Fast forward a year and the time had come to put a plan into motion.

In the Northwest, June has set up to be an epic month for ski touring with ample snow and a weather pattern that is beginning to change for the better. Early in the week, conditions for the first weekend in June were looking promising so my climbing partner Reid McCaul and I made tentative plans for an alpine style ascent and descent of the Fuhrer Finger. As the weekend approached the forecast remained stable and on the night of June 3 we clipped into our skis and began skinning up toward the Nisqually glacier. As we gained elevation, the sun gradually fell behind the sunset amphitheater on the western flank of Rainier. I remember feeling quite alone as the last bit of alpine-glow faded into the night. What lay ahead of us was 9200 vertical feet of one of the most technically demanding mountains in the Northwest.

In total darkness we ascended the lower portion of the Nisqually glacier and carefully picked our route onto the Wilson Glacier. A few hours into the climb the snow conditions deteriorated rapidly and we were forced to remove our skis and put on crampons. This slowed us down a bit, but soon we again found our rhythm and just before midnight we approached the entrance to the Fuhrer Finger. The steep walls of the cliffs on either side of the colouir created an eerie echo as Reid and I discussed our strategy for ascending the route. We quickly agreed that our best option was to stay on the left side to avoid rock and ice fall in the middle of the chute. As we entered the colouir we quickly found that the snow conditions were not ideal for cramponing. There was a 4 inch thick unsupported crust with approximately a foot and half of loose, unconsolidated powder beneath. In other words the snow sucked! Gradually we gained elevation and finally reached ideal snow conditions above the hourglass in the colouir. This firm snow and ice supported our crampons and we quickly regained speed. By first light we found ourselves at about 12,000 ft. in the middle section of the Wapowety cleaver. The warmth of the suns rays on my face was a welcome feeling after hours of enduring the cold darkness of night.

After reaching the top portion of the Fuhrer Finger Reid and I took an extended break on the first "flat" section we could find. At this point it was obvious to both of us that the route was not in ideal shape to ski. As disappointing as this was to admit, the top layer had formed slabby avalanche conditions that would be dangerous later in the day. We decided to continue the ascent and figure out a new line to ski upon reaching the summit. From the top of the Wapowety Cleaver we made a right turn and traversed the upper section of the Nisqually glacier. This slog was more typical of Mt. Rainier's standard routes and took forever. At nearly 14,000 ft and having not slept in 24 hours, the elevation was starting to wear on us. Finally after what seemed like an eternity we stepped over the summit rim and into the crater of Mt. Rainier. It was 11:00 and we had been going strong for the past 13 hours. The summit of Rainier is a magical place that brings out a lot of emotion after hours of climbing. This time was no different, however exhaustion was quickly taking over. We collapsed just inside the crater and hunkered down for a much needed rest.

We spent approximately an hour on the summit sleeping, rehydrating and trying to eat as many calories as possible. Without much of an appetite at elevation this is very hard to do. As we rested Reid and I devised a plan to safely get off the mountain. Our original goal of skiing the Fuhrer Finger was now out of the question due to increased solar radiation from the midday sun as well as the questionable snow in the lower reaches of the colouir. Having heard that the Ingraham direct had been closed by RMI (Rainier's premier guiding service) that decent option was out of the question as well. As we contemplated the thought of the long meandering descent of the Disappointment Cleaver route another party joined us on the summit. After speaking with them it was decided that the Gibraltar Chutes was the fastest and best option for descent. I knew a little about the route but failed to realize just how exposed to serac and rock fall the chutes actually were. With the decision made we quickly packed up and headed down the upper reaches of the Nisqually and Ingraham glaciers. Upon reaching the saddle where the Gib ledges route meets the upper mountain we spotted our line, a steep 50 degree chute that leads directly to the Muir snowfield. We dropped in one at a time and enjoyed one of the best ski descents of our lives. Reid and I met again on the Muir Snowfield, finally able to relax in knowing that we had just linked up two premier routes on the mountain and were finally out of harms way. Before we new it we were back at the car enjoying the views of our accomplishment.

Elevation Gained: 9,010 ft.
Elevation Lost: 9,010 Ft.
Duration: 17 hours

Jeff Schomaker
TNF Seattle